The danger is written down in black and white: " modification of the Pecorino Romano Dop regulations" . Not just any modification, but the most delicate crossroads for the first of the agro-pastoral products of the Island. The choice is clear: continue to produce "Pecorino" with the milk of sheep of the "Sardinian breed", or overturn the quality and economic system with the "free" introduction of "foreign sheep" into the Sardinian territory, devastating the quality of the Sardinian product, effectively killing the Protected Designation of Origin.

Hour of truth

The moment of truth has already been set: 10:30 on Tuesday 3 December in Borore. The parliament of the Consortium members will meet for the umpteenth time, with the same agenda as two years ago, on 12 January 2022. A meeting that risks rekindling a war that seemed dormant or even archived forever: that for the defense of the "Sardinian breed" as the exclusive sheep for the production of milk for "Pecorino Dop".

“Foreigners” alert

The most important economy of the Island is at stake, considering that the possible introduction of the Lacon breed, French, and Assaf , Israeli, into the island's production would have only one result: to destroy the exclusive organoleptic qualities of the Pecorino produced on the Island, not only undermining the essential characteristics of the Protected Designation, but also dealing a lethal blow to Sardinian pastoralism. The "foreign" sheep, also called "cow-sheep", in fact, are destined for "stable" production, with a quantity of milk that is certainly higher, but with a quality that has nothing to do with that produced by the "Sardinian breed", which has always been linked to the varied qualities of Sardinian pastures.

Milk cheats

The risk that this upheaval may occur depends entirely on the application of Article 5 of the Pecorino Production Regulations already voted on by the assembly in January 2022: « For the production of milk intended for transformation into Pecorino Romano DOP, the permitted sheep breeds and their crosses, considered as “genetic types attributable to local breeds and their crosses” are the following: Sardinian breed, including the Black Arbus sub-population; Vissana breed; Sopravissana breed; Comisana breed; Massese breed; Amiata sheep breed». In addition to the «Sardinian breed» sheep, which in Sardinia reaches 96% of those raised, the positive list also includes those coming from micro-areas of Tuscany and Lazio. What would happen if the “positive list” were not implemented or were even revoked by a new vote is written down in black and white in the official explanatory tables relating to the changes: «In the event of non-approval, freedom of breeding is left for non-native dairy breeds». Until recent years there had been no need to introduce a “positive list” of breeds authorised to produce milk for the DOP “pecorino” precisely because no one had dared to violate that unwritten rule on respect for the “Sardinian breed”. Over the years, however, some “smart alecks” have introduced, or attempted to do so, quantities of milk from the “Assaf” or “Lacon” breeds, the foreign ones, into the market, putting quality and dairy production at risk. The need to “protect” the “Sardinian breed”, admitted to the exclusive production of pecorino together with territorial sub-breeds, was therefore already sanctioned with a broad vote of the members in January 2022. The choice to introduce the “positive list” of breeds has a strategic character right now that global competition will suffer the commercial shocks of the second Trump era: to root the typical production of one of the oldest and best-known cheeses in the world in the production areas indicated in the current specification. A territorial rooting now more than ever decisive to safeguard biodiversity, also guaranteeing the survival of breeds in danger of extinction that have always been destined for the production of milk from the processing of which we obtain very high-quality cheeses, appreciated throughout the world. Something, however, has happened since January 2022: tomorrow, in fact, the Consortium members, in Borore, will be forced, barring any unexpected events, to “vote again” on whether or not to introduce the “positive list”. The risk, which many fear, is linked to possible hidden "maneuvers" put in place by "characters" or powerful organizations that would aim to change the internal balance of the Consortium, all in favor of "foreign breeds", with the not so veiled intent of having milk from abroad arrive in Sardinia. A devastating hypothesis, functional only to economic speculation by Sardinian-continental dairy potentates, capable, however, of putting the entire production sector of Sardinia against the wall.

No to “copied” cheeses

An unprecedented damage for Sardinian shepherds and for biodiversity, understood as an essential competitive factor for the future of the Island. The "positive list" is, in fact, the only tool that allows, together with protection actions, often lacking, to increase the production tradition, the Sardinian one first of all, avoiding that it is replicated elsewhere, perhaps in Eastern countries, giving rise to "copied" and competing cheeses. In this case it would be a question of affirming, even before a legal exclusivity, a "natural exclusivity", obtainable only with the "characterization", on an exclusive basis, of the sheep breeds intended for milk production.

“Forgotten” Vote

Now on this path of valorization and protection of Pecorino this umpteenth convocation falls to re-approve or not a "positive list" already voted two years ago by the same assembly with 80% of the votes. At stake is, therefore, the introduction of intensive systems of alien-foreign breeds, capable of leading to the substantial extinction of the pastoral tradition of Sardinia. The results would be devastating: there would be an increase in the supply of milk to be transformed with the consequent vertical lowering of the price; the shepherds, despite the high costs of production, would find themselves getting low prices for milk and the system will collapse.

Shepherds ready to revolt

It is no coincidence that the "Sardinian shepherds without a flag" write it in clear letters: " We are not willing to risk our future for the greed of a few who would like to exploit the favorable moment to flood the market with Pecorino Romano produced with milk from imported foreign breeds. We are ready to organize new forms of protest that the processors will surely be forced to take into account, as the experiences of the not so distant past should have taught us ." Signed Gianuario Falchi, Nenneddu Sanna, Mario Carai and Fabio Pisu, the names of the Milk Revolt. Tomorrow the showdown.

Mauro Pili

© Riproduzione riservata