The tape measure on the neck adorns an elegant jacket. The story of the details of a life spent creating is meticulous, lucid and precise. Precision, a noun that allowed him to withstand the impact of the changes of the era, go through the war period, that of economic recovery, to experience the prosperity of the advent of mining and industry and to witness their progressive decline. Precision and dedication were for Francesco Manelli those innate virtues that allowed him to close his shop at the age of 93. Manelli is not a simple tailor, but he is the "tailor", the last of a generation now lost and the activity in the historic restaurant in via Garibaldi in Iglesias has lowered the shutter after 67 years.

At work

He sits behind a sewing machine, a Singer bought on installments in 1956 and paid for 82,000 lire. He tells of being born in Gavoi in October 1930. He talks as he skilfully fumbles on the stitches of a piece of fabric lying on the work table. Keeps thimbles, technimeter, cutting scissors and basimeter handy with a mercury bubble useful for precision measurements. «Near the house where I was born there was a tailor shop. From an early age I was fascinated by it. - he reveals - I was the third of six children and my mother wanted me to become a carpenter, or a shepherd, or a farmer. But my path was marked, because I felt something strong inside me».
It was the passion for cutting and sewing. At the age of 12 he entered the village tailor's shop as an apprentice. “After 5 years, an opportunity presented itself. - he says - My sister who lived in Carbonia needed company». At 3 in the morning he got on a bus in the direction of an area in full prosperity: «I returned to Gavoi only to call for a military visit. - he explains - But the next day I left again».

Un'immagine del passato di Francesco Manelli (foto Secci)
Un'immagine del passato di Francesco Manelli (foto Secci)
Un'immagine del passato di Francesco Manelli (foto Secci)

Path

After gaining experience in the "workshops" of the tailors of the mining town, in 1954 Francesco left for Milan to study "men's fashion" and returned with experience, certificates and diplomas under his arm. A year later he marries his beloved Delfina: "Together in life and work until his farewell in 2013. - he says - It was my strength".

In 1956 the decision to no longer depend on anyone and to open his own business by moving to Iglesias and founding the "Sartoria Francesco Manelli". Until last December 31, an institution that dressed thousands and thousands of people: «I still have customers who would like custom-made suits. - Francesco confesses - But the time has come to rest». Lisa Manelli is the first of 4 children and says: «My father has always had a passion for his work, out of the ordinary».

The only regret of "the last of the masters" is that of not having been able to find a figure who could inherit his business and his profession: «Many have worked for me. - continues Francesco - But in no one have I ever found that love for this art, capable of turning sacrifice into a reason for living».

Adrian Secci

© Riproduzione riservata