The document was signed by four unconventional shepherds (Gianuario Falchi, Nenneddu Sanna, Mario Carai, and Fabio Pisu) , but the document sent to Agriculture Minister Francesco Lollobrigida appears to reflect the sentiments of many Sardinian farmers, concerned about changes to the production regulations for Pecorino Romano (the main processed product of Sardinian milk, which also determines its price). They fear that the Sardinian production model—which guaranteed the PDO label—will be swept away by the introduction, through the modification to the regulations requested by the Protection Consortium, of intensive farming of "foreign" and non-native sheep. "The current climate," the shepherds informed the minister, is similar to that of 2019, when the milk war erupted.

Here is the letter sent to Lollobrigida.

***

«Dear Minister,

Sardinian shepherds wish to draw your attention to the amendment to the production specifications for Pecorino Romano PDO, published in the Official Journal on October 25, which does not include positive breeds, i.e., native sheep breeds traditionally raised in the production areas of Sardinia, Lazio, and the province of Grosseto.

We have no objections to the changes to the other articles; however, the failure to include native breeds is not a technical matter, but rather a profoundly political choice, the effects of which directly impact the survival of our productive and social model.

At a time in history when young people are abandoning the countryside and small inland towns, worsening already critical depopulation phenomena, this decision appears to be a further sign of inattention towards rural communities that have been the guardians of territories, traditions and biodiversity for centuries.

This approach risks primarily benefiting large processing companies, interested in developing intensive livestock farms and "enormous stables" based on foreign breeds such as the Lacaune (French) and the Assaf (Israeli), which produce milk with characteristics different from that of native breeds. This trend threatens the authenticity, uniqueness, and historical recognizability of Pecorino Romano, qualities that have allowed our product to become the most important aged sheep's cheese in the world.

It's clear that the industrialists' goal is to increase milk availability, focusing on quantity rather than quality, with the goal of lowering farm-gate prices and increasing profit margins in processing. This strategy sacrifices the product's identity, undermines the balanced relationship between extensive farming and the environment, and puts thousands of small producers at risk.

This is evidenced by the events that have occurred since 2021, when the request to amend the specifications to include the list of native breeds was submitted to the ministry, up until today. In 2021, meetings of the producer cooperatives were held, where the desire to include the list of breeds was unanimously expressed. This desire was confirmed in 2022, when the amendment was democratically approved by over 90% of the consortium members at the assembly. This decision was also supported by a technical report prepared by Agris (the Sardinia region's research body) at the formal request of the consortium president and deemed valid by Masaf, which only requested minor changes.

Unfortunately, what were supposed to be small changes dictated by the ministry's technicians have turned into a complete upheaval that has brought us to the present day.

Making this situation even more difficult is the fact that, unfortunately, the trade associations have failed to defend our interests, taking political positions that do not reflect what a union should protect: the work, dignity, and economic and cultural sustainability of shepherds. Indeed, it seems that one of the most important of them has come under pressure from the strongest, supporting a position contrary to what should be its natural position.

All of this is creating considerable discontent in the rural community. Disputes are already emerging on social media between the few farmers who have already adopted intensive farming and the vast majority of traditional Sardinian farmers. We don't want these tensions to escalate into demonstrations, which we ourselves would rather not see happen, but the situation being created is very reminiscent of the tensions that led to the famous 2019 milk protests in Sardinia.

We want to defend our identity, our breeds, our way of producing, and our role. Traditional Sardinian pastoralism is more than just an economic activity: it is a fundamental safeguard for the region, a bulwark against fires, environmental degradation, and hydrogeological instability.

We, historically, are the first custodians of the environment and of inland areas, and without us these territories risk total abandonment.

For these reasons, we ask you to urgently intervene to amend the specifications, indicating exclusively native breeds as the only ones permitted for the production of Pecorino Romano DOP, thus restoring a balance that protects the quality of the product, the survival of family businesses, and the cultural and environmental heritage we represent.

Trusting in your sensitivity towards a sector that contributes so much to the image and solidity of the country, we await your kind response."

(Unioneonline)

© Riproduzione riservata