It is a united front, that of butchers , all lined up against the common enemy of synthetic meat . For now, the Italian government has ordered the stop , in contrast to what happened in the United States, where the go-ahead has arrived, as well as in other countries around the world. But the bogeyman of the opening of the borders to the "laboratory steak" frightens the workers in the sector, in a historical moment in which there is already a slowdown in sales. At the San Benedetto market in Cagliari there are few doubts: «Even strong meat eaters», explains Antonello Lai, one of the historic “boxers” of the butcher shop, « have become vegan or vegetarian . In the 60s it was difficult to pass here: there was the seasonality and the expectation for the products of the period. Now any food is available all year round and many buy from large retailers».

Here the risk, according to the operator, becomes that of a further subtraction of customers: « The new generation needs new things : they would certainly try them». The driving force for synthetic meat, therefore, would be the attraction for the novelty, as Maurizio Loi also points out: «Many don't even want this meat anymore, let alone synthetic one. Probably someone just out of curiosity ». Yet not everyone lets themselves be seduced by innovations in the food sector, and for the butcher the connection with the notorious cricket flour is immediate: «They are going beyond all limits», he continues, «between synthetic meat, worms, insects and grasshoppers. I prefer to sell plaits, scallops and lamb's feet with sweetbreads, which is perhaps better .'

The challenge has just begun, but also another "San Benedetto", Sergio Masella, focuses on the place and claims its superiority while preparing some hamburgers: «One of these, made right now, can you make me synthetic? I can not understand". He doesn't openly take sides in favor of the ban, «if one wants to eat it, eat it», but he certainly wouldn't enter his box: «I've never even sold the frozen one . We have always preferred to work with fresh meat to give customers a clean service: we fought to get the best goods ».

Different speech for Mariano Cannas, who makes it a nutritional question: "In Norway and in the Northern countries they have found that synthetic meat does not have digestible proteins , so in the long run it will be a big problem". So it's better to focus on tradition: « We can't throw it away . The same goes for insects in food: the ancients ate them, but history does not repeat itself».

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