At 23, he left Decimoputzu without even a suitcase tied together with string. "I only had many dreams and a desire to work." Andrea Ena is now 46 and can smile as he rewatches the film of his life, holding the award for best pizza chef in Europe, assigned by the Top Five. "It's a sort of Michelin guide for pizzerias," Andrea explains, "which assigns prizes by geographical category: Asia, North America, South America, Europe, and Italy. I won the title of best pizza chef in Europe thanks to my work in the heart of Bratislava: I've been here since 2003, after a long apprenticeship as a dishwasher, kitchen assistant, and pizza chef on Lake Garda, I now own two restaurants in the Slovakian capital and have 70 employees."

The Island in the Heart

There's a lot of Sardinia in Andrea Ena's heart and on his menu. "At least twice a year, I try to return to my parents' house, Dad Efisio and Mom Graziella, in Decimoputzu. My brother Alessio works with me, while my sister Silvia has chosen a different path. I return to Sardinia as a tourist, but I always try to do it by car, so that when I get back to Bratislava, I can bring back to my restaurants so many flavors of my island, which are the secret to my success."

The menu

Sardinian pizza with dried sausage and pecorino cheese is one of the best-selling pizzas after the classic Margherita and Bufala, but other traditional Sardinian dishes are also appearing in the menu for Slovakian and international customers in a city that attracts an ever-increasing number of visitors: "We make culurgiones every day," continues Ena, "malloreddus alla campidanese, fregola, and seadas. The wine list also features the best Sardinian wineries, and the seasonal pizzas we're currently offering are made with red pesto made with Sardinian dried tomatoes, artichokes strictly from Serramanna, and, of course, myrtle liqueur."

The adventure

Andrea Ena arrived in Bratislava somewhat by chance: "In 2003, I had a Slovakian girlfriend. We came to her area to learn more about the restaurant industry, and I decided to open a business here. Then we broke up, but I stayed. Sardinia is always in my heart, but now I prefer to visit as a tourist. I'm not even considering returning as an entrepreneur: in Slovakia, there are many incentives for those who want to start a business. I can afford to live well by working hard and ensuring 70 paychecks. In Italy, taxes are crushing local businesses."

Another of Andrea Ena's secrets to success is his relationship with his customers. "I try to personally care for them." He's often among the tables, wearing his chef's uniform with red and blue inserts in honor of his favorite team, Cagliari, and a smile: that's how you become the best pizza chef in Europe.

Paul Carta

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