Asinara: paradise, purgatory and hell in one island. Between riots and soccer tournaments

At Asinara every stone speaks. For decades it hosted penal colonies and maximum security prisons, since 1997 it has been a National Park. From Stintino after 5 minutes of navigation you arrive on the island, you dock at the Fornelli pier, you also enter another world: of environment, culture and history. From the pier a long straight road of 500 meters and a white, rectangular structure suddenly appears: the Fornelli prison, the maximum security one . Herds of wild horses graze next to it. Beautiful.

In love, males fight furiously with each other. And many struggles happened inside that prison. The founders of the Red Brigades Renato Curcio and Alberto Franceschini were confined in a special wing. The latter called in prisons "Mega" because of his character. It was above all him, Maurizio Ferrari , who never dissociated himself from armed struggle, Renato Ognibene and Lauro Azzolini , an expert in explosives (belonging in the BR to the so-called Emilian clan), who organized the revolt of 2 October 1979 , the Red October of Asinara. But others also played an active role.

The prison was turned upside down that night, after the members of the Red Brigades had managed to build rudimentary bombs with coffee pots. At dawn the surrender, with the retaliation of Cardullo , the director of the prison, a character to say the least picturesque (later investigated and convicted of corruption together with his wife Leda Sapio), called the viceroy of Asinara .

In Fornelli other (separate) branches housed mafiosi of the caliber of Leoluca Bagarella or common prisoners such as Renato Vallanzasca . But also the black terrorists Mario Tuti, Valerio Fioravanti and Pier Luigi Concutelli . Or Camorristi like Raffaele Cutolo and Pasquale Barra .

800 meters east of the former prison of Fornelli is the former prison of Santa Maria , which is also practically intact, at the time "frequented" especially by international drug dealers, most of whom are non-EU citizens. After passing Fornelli after a few kilometres, going downhill to the right you can see the wonderful beach of Cala Sant'Andrea. Shortly after the Tumbarinu branch. Totally isolated, where an environmental center stands today, but where for decades the most dangerous pedophiles in Italy were detained, who could not stay with others, on pain of their safety.

Then Campo Perdu , in a plain by the sea: another branch. Where Matteo Boe from Lulu, for example, spent several years. After a few kilometers of road the imposing Cala Reale, with its pier, the hospital, its large buildings and its former penitentiary offices. Before the ascent towards Cala d'Oliva you arrive at Trabuccato . Former prison for common prisoners, in recent years the "home" of some members of the Anonymous seizures. Cala d'Oliva can be seen suddenly after a sharp bend. Suggestive. With its clear and tidy houses. On the side of its pier, a former guest house, this time in a garnet colour.

Where in great secrecy in 1984 Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino instructed the famous mafia maxi-trial . Above before the central branch of the prison is a "disco". A bit particular: a building so called because it is always lit. It was actually the bunker where Mafia boss Toto Riina stayed . Before him still Renato Cutolo, for years together with another prisoner: a certain Derosa. Then the road climbs towards Case Bianche, in an almost wild territory, from the film "Papillon". The cells generally housed Sardinian prisoners, the more peaceful ones, who were shepherds. Then, on an absolutely unpaved road, you can leave for Punta Scomunica, the highest part of the island.

To the north Punta Scorno and its wonderful large white lighthouse. To the east of Punta Scorno is Cala Arena , one of the most beautiful beaches in Italy. Nothing to envy to tropical beaches. In a strictly protected area. Its hinterland is frequented by wild boars, goats and partridges, present throughout the island, like the famous donkeys, including, it is known, the white ones with blue eyes. In this month of May , Asinara is a festival of colours, of violet, yellow and red fluorescence, like that of euphorbia .

What is now heaven was then purgatory and hell. Of guards and inmates. Which for years have even played an internal football tournament, which saw the handyman brigadier Lorenzo Spanu among the lively and passionate organizers. Of those four football fields, which even hosted Torres di Zola in 1988, lukewarm testimonies remain. One is in Cala d'Oliva, with the doors almost intact. It should be emphasized that even the Asinara prisons had their Maradona: his name was Lasic and he was a very skilled centre-forward. He was playing professionally in Croatia and became embroiled in drug trafficking. Once he left, nothing more was heard of him.