"With those who do not have dark circles, I do not speak". The illuminants? "Always use them, even in bad shape, during the day, at night, upside down or upside down".
Irony is one of the characteristics of Paolo Pinna , one of the most well-known and appreciated Italian make-up artists: 50 years old, originally from Bergamo, he has a strong bond with Sardinia, "which is not a place for holidays, but a point of reference". His father is from Sarroch, "all my childhood - he tells L'Unione Sarda - I spent there, it's a family place". There are many traits that he inherited "from a unique land, with people who have great dignity and perseverance, with a strong sense of duty, desire to do and commit themselves". “Being stubborn distinguishes me, not to quote a cliché, as well as always having a precise idea about things and situations, but this does not prevent me from confronting those who are different from me. A wealth therefore, not a limit ”, he says.
And the dark circles of the Sardinians? Are they a common trait?
“From my experience, yes: they have a very distinctive face. I understand immediately if I have a Sardinian in front of me, even before he speaks: I just need to look at the structure of the cheekbone, the shape of the lips. And the eye cup, which I also have and it's something I'm proud of ”.
How do you become a professional makeup artist?
“For those of my generation it was largely a case of life, it was not a desire expressed from an early age, rather a craft built over time. Today there are two very standard routes ”.
Which ones are they?
"Bind yourself to companies that produce make-up, usually with a coaching during courses with the appropriate training, and from there you enter the circuit of perfumeries, or go from fashion to work with photographers and agencies".
How did you start?
“With companies. I've never had a passion for fashion, I was more fascinated by the change that makeup produces on faces. I was curious about the world of textures, the reflectance of products, how they worked on the skin. The emotional part rather than the artistic one. I saw how people can also change their mood once they are made up ".
The first job?
“I was studying law and at the same time I started, after several courses, with Kiko Milano, of the Percassi group. They were looking for a store manager, I passed the interview and I understood that it would be my future even though I was very young. I spent three years in Italy, during which we opened the first single-brand stores, then another three years in Switzerland ".
And he returned to Italy.
“Yes, I wanted to try the world of TV, which is always a production and has little to do with the artistic side. But I wanted to understand the timing, how the light filters work, how the color reacted. There is a lot of adrenaline in this environment. I took care of the Sky Sport journalists and the guests: they had to look not made up but in order, fresh ”.
The next step?
"I realized that in order to be able to build my professional profile and 'make a career' I would have to bond with celebrities, who represent not only a great training but also an important 'showcase': many contexts, many different working conditions, rhythm, movement . All this would have helped me to be more credible towards companies. We can say that the stars are a business card ".
The first important collaboration?
“With Malika Ayane, who was a rookie at the time. We met, liked each other, and in the end I was around the world with her for 10 years as she became more and more famous and sought after: tours, TV broadcasts, interviews, I followed her everywhere, I took many of those planes… ".
Great satisfactions though.
“Yes, but very tiring. I always say that if you want to become famous you need iron health. This is how I began to have visibility, to create a profile that represented safety and guarantee for customers. When you know that a make-up artist is famous, you rely on him. And the companies, for their part, consider the name more expendable ".
Make-up is a very fashionable theme, is it a mistake to want to see yourself at all different costs?
“No, those who decide to change do it because they want it, those who want to improve ask to be embellished, but one thing is the artistic make-up, another is the day one. The first is the one that decorates you, puts color accents, modifies the appearance of the face, the second makes you different but must not be seen. Eyeshadows, colors, we all find the way to get the result we want to achieve, it's just a matter of dedication, time and practice. Just want it".
What are the summer 2022 trends?
“Graphic make-up and color are back, then drawn eyeliner, geometricization of eyes and lips, all very unnatural in reality. Young people, who are the ones who dictate fashion, will use bright colors to have a distinctive look ".
Why is there so much criticism of men wearing makeup?
“We do not already accept a woman who uses make-up always and in any case, we consider this need for beauty to be a bit superficial, especially we Italians. Let alone the men who in our society still represent a model of firmness, of toughness. But more than anything else for the boys today it is about fun, the desire to get rid of old models. To break with what was proposed by previous generations. It has always been so historically: before there were characters like Mick Jagger who wore makeup, today there are the Maneskin and Fedez. Young people do not want to pretend to be approved and they dare ".
Is there a basis for good make-up…?
“Skin care: hydration first of all, otherwise the make-up even if done perfectly will always be horrible. On the set of films or beauty or fashion photo shoots, the first thing celebrities do is moisturize their skin, it is essential that it is translucent ”.
What do those who ask for make-up by an expert?
“They all say they want to change but are actually asking to see themselves brighter and younger. When they rely on a professional they have Monica Bellucci, Sharon Stone in mind, they want to become someone else but if you are a good professional you understand who you are in front of and for 80 percent, and I say this after having worked on at least 70 thousand faces, they ask not to be transformed but embellished, with the most beautiful skin. In short, to be the person I am but in the best day. The unexpected but frequent thing is when you make a super make-up, with Leonardo shades and you hear yourself say 'beautiful, but now I'm going to wash my face that I have to go home'. Celebrities do it too ”.
The person you would like to pass between your brushes?
“Without epoch Virna Lisi who I have always considered one of the most beautiful faces in Italian cinema; otherwise the face of a very young person to make them understand that there can be speed without sacrificing quality ".
How did it end up on Mickey Mouse?
“A person from the Italian editorial team wanted to include Malika Ayane in the comic and the artist in the end portrayed me too, it was 2012. A wonderful experience, I kept 4 copies of that issue”.
Is it true that she changed Lorella Cuccarini's hairstyle?
“Yes, for the theme song of Domenica In. She had always had the tuft on the side, a very ladylike look, blow-dried hair, in a fold, too classic. I like to experiment so I proposed the central line. She is beautiful, even without makeup. She liked the result very much, she looked great ”.
In 2018 she launched her own make-up brand: “Perfect”, a name that is an aspiration?
“Having always used brands already in distribution, in each product there was always something that I would change and that I tried to modify by mixing colors or changing the yield. I wanted my own line that was more effective, first of all for my personal need. And it was very well received. I chose the name because we commonly believe that perfection is made up of very sophisticated details, in reality it consists in the adaptability of one thing, if it is perfect it is better for different people ".
Do you have any news planned?
“A new more covering concealer, for more stained skin. Not mature, attention, I never make it a question of age. The imperfections are not relatives of the years ".
Is there a place for a dream in the drawer?
“How not: to write a book on beauty, on women's habits. An ironic look at how they are conceived by the beauty industry. And a combined theatrical show on the relationship between women and make-up ".
Tell us a 'secret touch'.
“The use of illuminants. In stick, liquid, as you like, but they make the difference. Even badly, it doesn't matter, they increase the reflectance of the light and make it look its best by creating a silky skin effect. To blend well on cheekbones, eyelids, cupid's bow and bridge of the nose. And to be used always: day and night, upside down and upside down ".